Thorp Air Command - T18.net

Can anyone tell me where to find the newsletter, photos, or drawings of the removable floorboard mods? I think I have seen these somewhere on this site but I cannot locate them.

Tim A.

Several NewsLetters back Roy Farris provided Info on a Reduce Size FB panel. Now I'm not sure if he could get his fuel tank thru it so you have to take that into account. My self and Don DD built ours as a single peice with the rudder peddles attached to the panel. I place an extra angle on the firewall with plate nuts attach to it and a doubler on the aft bulk head with a double row of plate nuts all 8-32. Plate nuts down each Fus side stringer. I dimpled my panel, although you might want to counter sink since it's .040. Your call.

_________________
Stephen R. Peirce
S/N#078 Ph 256-461-0233
Rocket City
Huntsville, Alabama

Tim,
There are basically two (or three) ways to modify the floorboard to make it removable. The writeup by Roy is very good (Newsletter 142)and is the latest and greatest version.

But, as you are modifiying an existing airplane and not starting from scratch there is simpler method which involves simply drilling out each rivet and replacing each on with an 6/32 or 8/32 nutplate and machine screw.

I was in your shoes not long ago and went with the later.

_________________
Lee Walton
Houston, TX
N51863,N118LW
KEFD

Ha! Looks like Steve and I posted at the same time ... basically ditto what he said!

_________________
Lee Walton
Houston, TX
N51863,N118LW
KEFD

Thanks Steve and Lee. I am looking over the write-up in NL 142 now. This is not quite what I was looking for but will work even better than what I was thinking of. I thought I had seen where someone made two removable panels beneath the seat to allow one to stand inside the cockpit while working on the panel and under the panel??

Tim A.

MR. TIM;
IT LOOKS LIKE LEE AND STEVE HAVE YOU ALL FIXED UP ON HOW TO DO YOUR FLOOR. MY FLOOR IS REMOVABLE WITH 8-32S AND RUNS FULL WIDTH FROM THE FIREWALL TO THE AFT OF THE SPAR. THIS IS NICE FOR OPENING UP FOR INSPECTIONS. MINE HAS 4 ANGLE LONGERONS THAT RUN FROM THE FIREWALL TO THE FRONT OF THE SPAR. THE RUDDER BRACKETS HAVE A BOLT THET HELPS SECURE THE FLOOR. I'VE HAD THE THORP 3 YEARS NOW AND WHEN I DID MY FIRST ANNAUL, ME BEING A GOOD SIZE FELLOW, HAD A TIGHT FIT TO GET IN AND REMOVE THESE BOLTS. WHILE I HAD THE FLOOR OUT, I DECIDED TO CUT IT IN 2 PIECES AND I DID SO 1 INCH AFT OF WHERE THE RUDDERS BOLT UP. I MADE A NICE FLANGE WHERE IT GOES TOGETHER AND NOW I JUST REMOVE THE REAR 2/3 OF THE FLOOR. IF THERE IS A NEED TO GET FURTHER FORWARD, I CAN REMOVE THE RUDDER BOLTS WITH EASE FROM THE BOTTOM AND TAKE THE REST DOWN. THIS MAKES IT EASIER TO GET BEHND THE PANEL.
GOOD LUCK IN MAKING YOURS.

I KNOW OF 2 S-18S THAT HAVE A PANEL UNDER THE RIGHT SEAT THAT CAN BE REMOVED WHERE YOU CAN STAND ON THE FLOOR AND THATS GREAT FOR WORKING ON THE FRONT OF THE PANEL, BUT STILL TIGHT FOR GETTING BEHINDIT.

LATER;
TANKER TED; N18NH, KERSEY, CO AND PORTERVILLE, CA

You mean like this ? I have one for the other side. You can stand, kneel or crawl under the dash. 3/4 plywood. Throw a pillow/cushion/towel on top to make it a little easier on the bones.

RB

Image Insert:



Tim: I guess I miss read your post. I saw an S-18 at PTV (Mike Archer...CSA) that had the removable floor UNDER the seats so you could stand in the cockpit. I don't remember seeing anything on the Forum or in the archives ?

HI RICH;
YEPPER! I GOT THEM TOO AND ALSO HAVE A PIECE OF 3/4 BY 6" THAT WILL LAY ON TOP OF THE TUNNEL WITH A LITTLE PILLOW. HAVE BEEN FOUND THERE SNOOZING WHEN I SHOULD HAVE BEEN WORKIN!

LATER; TANKER TED; N18NH

Let me see if I can figure out how to attach a photo of my removable floorboard.
Sorry, I guess I don't know how to do it.
GG

I just started looking at the floor issue which prompted a question.
Is it standard to carry the floor material forward of the firewall to provide the cowling attachment or is a separate strip of material as used on the sides of the firewall the preferred approach?
thanks

_________________
Stug

I used a strip like the sides as the firewall is a little weak, put two rows of nut plates , one for the removable floor and the other row for the cowl.

Separate strip is preferable as it allows you to flush mount the bottom cowl.

_________________
Bob Highley
N711SH
SN 835
KLAL

OK a separate strip I should have remembered it wouldn't be flush otherwise.
I'd just been looking at an old floor skin where they had extended the floor and thought I may have missed something.

With the removable floors, is it necessary to make the flange on the bottom of the 601 fitting wider to carry the nut plates, the nut plates will fit but it looks a bit light? A bit more meat on the 601 fitting might not be a bad thing in any case?

_________________
Stug

I would use more meat. My present project has just that mod.

_________________
Bob Highley
N711SH
SN 835
KLAL

I have been trying to complete a drawing of the floor skin in preparation for cutting.
I have added most of the mods I have read about or been told of and also included the typical accessories that need to have a hole cut in the floor skin.
Based on the attached drawing have I missed anything vital? Any discussion, comments or suggestions on any additional items I can pre plan for and include in the drawing?
Thanks

_________________
Stug