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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2014 4:16 pm 
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What does everyone use to lubricate the jackscrew assembly? Do you lubricate it at every conditional inspection or at a different interval?


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Fraser MacPhee
PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2014 4:48 pm 
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I'm gonna go out on a limb here, probably take a lump or two, and say it doesn't really matter much what kind of grease you use. Personally, I clean it and re-lube it up each conditional and run it stop to stop a cupla times to make sure it's operating smoothly.

Grease is going to attract dirt like Canadians to beer, women to money, and Rich to a shared bunk.......there is no fixing that. I have used black grease, white lithium, and I think last conditional, I used Aeroshell prop grease.

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dickwolff
PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2014 5:06 pm 
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A lot of folks use Lubriplate on the trim screw.


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Jim Mantyla
PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2014 5:30 pm 
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Ahh, "lubriplate", other wise known as weiner shlider by the Germans.

Jim :-)


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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2014 6:14 pm 
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ahh, lubriplate, I have some on my shelf. that's what i'll use. thanks.


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bfinney
PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2014 7:07 pm 
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I see "lubriplate" speced on the plans in various places. "Lubriplate" is a brand name and there must be 30 different products in the Lubriplate line, the question is which "lubriplate" do you use? and where do you find it at a reasonable price?

inquiring minds want to know. :D

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Bill Williams
PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2014 7:10 pm 
I think it's called "White Lithium" most hardware stores carry it


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Rich Brazell
PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2014 7:53 pm 
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I don't share my bunk , but I do share my "grease." ??? I think Fraser is correct . If you "lube" your fittings once a year I don't think it really matters what grease you use ? (Brill Cream might be the exception ?) :o I started using the "red" HP lube . We fly into all kinds of fields with dust , dirt and "Pixey Dust !" It will attract dirt/dust like a magnet ! If we had enclosed compartments , then we could probably "lube" less often ? :P BOOM !

RB O0


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fytrplt
PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2014 7:55 pm 
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Lubriplate 105.

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jrevens
PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 10:44 am 
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About 24 years ago, I lubricated mine with an air-drying bonded dry lube, made by Dow & containing graphite & molybdenum sulfide. I have a spray can of a newer version now, labelled Dow 321R. Anyway, I check it every year, I've never had to re-lube it, & as far as I can tell there has been no measurable wear & it runs smooth. Doesn't attract dirt.
There sure are a lot of different types of Lubriplate grease. I tried the "Aero", but it was a little too "light" for me. The stuff Bob recommended is good I'm sure.

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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 7:32 pm 
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I looked up the spec sheet on that Dow 321R, and it says its made up of <10% graphite. I have some PB Blaster http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-5-5- ... ifications that is a dry graphite lube that says it contains 10%-20% graphite.

I would prefer to apply a dry lube so as not to attract dirt and grit, but I don't want the graphite to promote corrosion either. You think this 10-20% of graphite in the PB Blaster is too high or would it be a decent alternative to the Dow 321R?


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SHIPCHIEF
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 12:13 am 
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I agree with the idea of dry film lubricant. Moly / graphite should be good.
I look at grease as future potential grinding paste. Wipe it off or wash it out every year and replace it as best you can.
I think graphite is a corrosion problem for the aluminum rather than the steel? So spray it onto the jackscrew with a rag for a backstop.
I think antiseize compound would be good on the screw threads because it tends to stay in place well. It sure makes a mess.
"Feisty" had never been opened in this area. Finished in 1984, and purchased by me a few years ago, I had to replace the roll pin on the trim motor connection to the trim driveshaft. This area was riveted in. I had to drill it out thru the orignial paint job to get in there.
So it went, I think 296 hours and 24 years without hands on maintenance, although it might have had lube sprayed or wiped on thru the round service covers under the stabilator.

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jrevens
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 12:51 am 
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I'm not sure, Ryan. The 321R contains 3 to 7% graphite & up to 30% molybdenum disulfide with an inorganic binder. It is recommended for aluminum to aluminum & aluminum to steel surfaces. Lu Sunderland was recommending dry lubes at the time he was doing the newsletter. I just don't know about the P B Blaster, but I can tell you that I know of a few T-18s that have had their aileron & anti-servo tab hinges lubricated with LockEze for decades. It is basically graphite with a light machine oil carrier that evaporates & dries. I've never seen or heard of any corrosion associated with that.

Ryan Allen wrote:
I looked up the spec sheet on that Dow 321R, and it says its made up of <10% graphite. I have some PB Blaster http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-5-5- ... ifications that is a dry graphite lube that says it contains 10%-20% graphite.

I would prefer to apply a dry lube so as not to attract dirt and grit, but I don't want the graphite to promote corrosion either. You think this 10-20% of graphite in the PB Blaster is too high or would it be a decent alternative to the Dow 321R?

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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 6:57 am 
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all good points. thank you for the input.


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jrevens
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 11:24 am 
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You're welcome, Ryan. The only problem with the 321R is that it's stupid expensive. I had some other uses for it also, & that's how I justified the expense. I think you could lube everything on several T-18s with one can. It's sometimes used in the aerospace industry to lubricate basically inaccessible areas that cannot be re-lubed. I also used it to lube my anti-servo & aileron hinges - I put a light coat on the hinge pins before inserting them. Also worked well on flap hinges, etc. Like I believe I said, I've had experience with it on my T-18 for about 24 years.

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