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SHIPCHIEF
PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 1:12 am 
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Here is a pic of the weighing. I weighed it 3 times, tail low, tail high and perfectly level. even a 1/4 bubble off on a carpenter's level is a couple of pounds tail weight.


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dickwolff
PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 12:11 pm 
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I hate to post yet another starter related post in this W&B thread, but I am curious if anyone is running the Toyota (Corolla?) starter that was all the rage years ago. I'm sure there is at least one NL article showing how to build a bracket for said starter.

I'd like to shed some pounds too, but I am way to cheap to go with a Skytech.

d

BTW - Nice looking airplane, Scott. See you at OSH.


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James Grahn
PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 1:22 pm 
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Beautiful bird, Scott. As far as CG is concerned, as long as you are in the window, I wouldn't worry about it. The end result will be more or less baggage allowable. The Thorp has a pretty large window. So you should be able to move components to help your baggage situation.
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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 2:30 pm 
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dickwolff wrote:
I hate to post yet another starter related post in this W&B thread, but I am curious if anyone is running the Toyota (Corolla?) starter that was all the rage years ago. I'm sure there is at least one NL article showing how to build a bracket for said starter.

I'd like to shed some pounds too, but I am way to cheap to go with a Skytech.

d

BTW - Nice looking airplane, Scott. See you at OSH.



I had a nissan starter on my other engine. I still have the bracket. Its heavy and ugly.


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Bill Williams
PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 6:57 am 
Several years ago I made up a couple of mounts (NL) from aluminuum and used the Nippon starter, it worked well but seemed to have a short life span, the local auto parts would warranty it. I think I gave my last one to David Read
Watch Ebay for starters for sale. Don't pay a high price ($25 is a fair price) for the Skytec starter as most are not airworthy but the castings are usable. Purchase a Ford Mustang starter from the auto parts store, transfer the motor and solenoid from the new starter to the skytec, put the old parts back together and return the core. You will have a skytec starter for less than a 100 bucks.
A carpenters level is not accurate enough to level a plane, use a plummers level. Compare the two and you will see that the plummers level has a straight glass as compared to the bent glass of a carpenters.


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bfinney
PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 1:56 pm 
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Bob Nuckolls has an article for a starter adapter on his AeroElectric Connection site
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs/Starters/Lycoming_Starter_Adapter.pdf
this is for a Nippondenso starter from a '75-'80 Toyota Corrola.

enjoy

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jrevens
PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 9:00 pm 
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Bill Williams wrote:
Several years ago I made up a couple of mounts (NL) from aluminuum and used the Nippon starter, it worked well but seemed to have a short life span, the local auto parts would warranty it. I think I gave my last one to David Read
Watch Ebay for starters for sale. Don't pay a high price ($25 is a fair price) for the Skytec starter as most are not airworthy but the castings are usable. Purchase a Ford Mustang starter from the auto parts store, transfer the motor and solenoid from the new starter to the skytec, put the old parts back together and return the core. You will have a skytec starter for less than a 100 bucks.
A carpenters level is not accurate enough to level a plane, use a plummers level. Compare the two and you will see that the plummers level has a straight glass as compared to the bent glass of a carpenters.


That sounds like a great tip about the SkyTec starters, Bill... thanks!

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david read
PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 10:25 pm 
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Bill that starter worked great for 562 hours and I intend to use it for several more as soon as I get DR back in the air later this year. I made the mount out of steel, your idea sounds like a weight saver.


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jtwigg
PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2018 11:33 pm 
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Is there a weight and balance Excel file on the new forum? I once saw that the old forum had one but couldn’t download it. Thanks in advance!

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Jeff J
PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2018 6:53 am 
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Here is one: viewtopic.php?f=29&t=7998&p=17238&hilit=Weight#p17238

Double check any numbers already on it.

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pmandel
PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2020 12:42 pm 
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Resurrecting an old thread here -- and claiming ignorance since I have never built a thang, much less an airplane -- I do want to weigh my Thorp just to double check everything. Costs me nothing but a couple hours of time to borrow scales and weigh 'er up, will give me peace of mind knowing everything is up to snuff. But...I have no idea what or where WL42 is (I'm told that's what needs to be level for weighing). Someone care to enlighten me? Pleeze make it as simple as possible for me, I'm just a flight instructor, not a builder. Photo(s) would help. Huge thanks in advance!

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fytrplt
PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2020 1:20 pm 
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WL 42 is the top of the 3/4" angle that runs the length of the fuselage. Best way is to lay the level on the reinforcing strip by the cockpit. Before you ask, the leading edge of the wing is 55" back from the datum.

Be careful. When the plane is level on the main gear, the tail gets really light. Have fun!

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Jeff J
PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2020 6:50 pm 
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On mine, the wing leading edge is the datum.

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Thorp T18
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"The joke in aviation is, 'If you want to make a million, you'd better start with £10m.' " -Bruce Dickinson


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James Grahn
PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2020 6:57 pm 
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You can make the datum whatever you like. The plans have it at the crank flange.
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Jeff J
PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2020 6:34 am 
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I haven’t seen that particular drawing. Mine was in front of the spinner when I got it. I like points that are fixed and easy to measure from like many factory built airplanes use so I moved the datum when I put it on the scales a few years back.

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"The joke in aviation is, 'If you want to make a million, you'd better start with £10m.' " -Bruce Dickinson


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