Thorp Air Command - T18.net

Just as a matter of conversation, I don't think this is fully accurate. The principal reason that wear can occur with good quality wire ties that have been installed or become a little loose is dirt, or most specifically silica (sand) in the air/environment. There are many materials that can be added to nylon to modify properties, but I don't believe calcium carbonate is one that would be commonly used or found in the material used in high quality ties and then would somehow be a factor in its abrasive qualities. I'm a fan of wire ties and have used them extensively in the airplanes I built, specifically Thomas & Betts "Ty-Rap". They have an unlimited tensioning range due to the small embedded stainless steel tab in the design. This makes it a little easier to get just the right amount of tension when installing. They're more expensive than many other brands, but worth it to me. Their common MX series are made of Nylon 6/6 and are good for use up to 185 deg. F. I use the UV/weather resistant black ones, all over the airplane, including the engine compartment, and never experienced any kind of failure or problem in the 28 years that I owned the T-18 that I built. They are also available in many different configurations and types including Nylon 6/6 that is heat stabilized and good to 221 deg. (or even 302 deg. with the TYHT series). Like Bob said, lacing is a PITA and makes the job of cleanly adding wires to a bundle much harder. I believe absolutely in protecting tubing or other structure, sometimes including the wire bundle itself with something like Jim suggests. I like to use a thin layer of clear, abrasion resistant polyurethane tape. If you buy common, cheap wire ties made in China or somewhere else, who knows what they might have in them.

_________________
John Evens
Arvada, Colorado
T-18 N71JE (sold)
Kitfox 7 SS N27JE

I have to tell on myself a little bit. I have been rewiring my flying T18 for a few days now. I started out at the tail of the airplane and have worked my way up to the panel. Everything aft of the panel got pretty little lacing cord. I love it, and it looks wonderful (of course there are only about 8 wires that run from my tail to the panel). But when I started in on that panel, with all those wires, and reaching down under the fuel tank with my arms stretched out in front of me and bent over while holding a bundle of wires. No way could I make those pretty knots with that lacing cord while doing all that! I am back with zip tie camp! And my back hurts!

Re: wire ties vs lacing - I had a great tour of the new Pilatus completion facility at my home field, KBJC, today. They also do a lot of military work, but right now there wasn't any classified stuff going on so we got a good tour. They had several models being completed - avionics, interiors, etc. in various stages of completion. One of their PC24 jets had some panels open and wiring was visible. I found it interesting that they don't use any waxed lacing cord on wire bundles - just my favorite T&B brand wire ties. This is an $11.4 million airplane.

_________________
John Evens
Arvada, Colorado
T-18 N71JE (sold)
Kitfox 7 SS N27JE

John is that silicone rescue tape under some of those wire ties?

well, that's interesting, thanks John. I guess if Pilatus can do, so can I.

I forgot to ask, but I believe it is. They seem to use that whenever the bundle is going to touch & be attached to a bracket, or the cool little extensions that are attached to sockets, etc. for strain relief. If ties are just used on the wire bundle alone, it doesn't seem to be used.

_________________
John Evens
Arvada, Colorado
T-18 N71JE (sold)
Kitfox 7 SS N27JE

Most hobby shops carry nice flush cutters for injection molded kits that will last. I have a set my grandmother got me when I was 7 and I still use them daily around the shop on zip ties. the first rule I was taught working on airplanes is that all zip ties must be flush clipped and safety wire pig-tailed. Deviations from this rule were considered sins against humanity.

-Andy

Harbor Freight sells an outstanding flush cutter for around $3. The jaws don’t hold up to much more than wire ties but they are cheap enough I keep 3 or 4 pair around.

_________________
Thorp T18
O-320-B3B (160 HP)
68x74 Sterba Propeller

"The joke in aviation is, 'If you want to make a million, you'd better start with £10m.' " -Bruce Dickinson

So its getting close to time to install my fuel tank, so I need to address this issue. The tank support bracket is cracked (see photo). The photo is taken as if you were laying on your back on the ground and looking up. Any suggestions to salvage the existing bracket, or should I remove it and reinstall a new one?

Make a strip out of .040 and rivet it on the back side. If you want to get fancy make a doubler.

_________________
Bob Highley
N711SH
SN 835
KLAL

Wonderful! Thanks Bob.

What is the preferred gascolator and bracket that everyone is using, or if there are some to stay away from. I am leaning towards using this bracket, and cutting it as necessary to fit the Usher gascolator. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

You can make anything work, but that bracket is designed to use a bale that goes under the gascolator to hold it up. I don’t have a lot of experience with the Usher one. Don’t they have a bracket?

From the looks of it, all you need is a piece of angle to bolt it to. I’ll send you some if you need it.
Cubes

Yes, I think you're right about mounting it, I can figure that out I think. For some reason Im feeling some hesitation about which gascolator to use. I guess if there are no bad reviews, I'll use the Usher.