Thorp Air Command - T18.net

before I start on the rebuiling of the S-18 wings, I need to get some preliminary things done.

I was wondering what size; Height, width and length of working table that is "best"?

I am thinking right now of a table that is 4' wide and 12' long. Leaving a 2 inch overhang around the entire table top surface. The top will be plywood. The legs I'm envisioning being 2x4 or maybe 4x4 post with adjustable feet so that I can best ensure it is level and not warped on the uneven hangar floor.

I really am interested in the height above the floor to the table top. As I do not want to have it too high and be hard to reach items. On the other hand I don't want it too low as it would be a back breaker after a time. I'm 5'7" so I'm thinking of making the table top about waist (belt) whight. Maybe an inch or two higher.

So, am I on the right track or is there something else? Also how thick should the plywood be? is 5/8" enough or should I go up to 3/4 inch?

Do I even need this table if I'm going to start with rebuilding the wings? Or should I wait until I start on the fuselage to build the table?

I used a 4 x 8 foot sheet of 3/4 inch MDF board . Easy to route a smooth rounded edge on ( tuff to do with plywood) and plenty big enough to assemble the center wing section or one outer wing section on an S-18 . I choose the MDF as it is a smoother board on the surface than plywood . I placed the MDF on top of a mobile cabinet to move around as needed . It also provided extra storage space for AC parts . It was slightly higher than waist high so you are not reaching up or down to work on your mistakes . It held up for many, many years until the AC was complete and then I think it ended up in the fireplace ? Pretty sure MDF and plywood are close in price . BADA BING , BADA BOOM !!

RB

Do a google search for "standard eaa work table" or "workbench" for some ideas/inspiration. I used the basic plan and modified the length for my table.

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Bruce Finney
N18JF T-18C #262
Yelm, WA USA

I made a 4' x 8' table using 2" x 3/16" angle for the legs and frame and 2 x 4's and 3/4" plywood for the top. Laying out the wings are critical and require that the wing does not have a twist in it. Used two 4" aluminum "I" beams , they need to be parallel and level on the table top(24") width. Laying the wing on these rails will assure the the wing is straight . Use furniture straps to hold the wing in place. The important thing is the table and parallel beams need to be level

Will 8' long enough for th fuselage too?

Yep, made two

The old standard height for work tables and counter tops was 36". The new standard is 38". My work station/building table is 38", but I am 6' tall.

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Bob Highley
N711SH
SN 835
KLAL

Fuselages are built up on custom saw horses.

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Bob Highley
N711SH
SN 835
KLAL

I haven't built a full scale plane. But when I do, I'll build it on something like this. I like this designs light weight, stiffness and versatility. Of course, for a plane building table, it doesn't need the table saw and router functionality.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnNi6Tpp-ac

Watch this guy build a modified version in about 15 minutes . This is more what I envision.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPvkdU5kkqA

Plans here;

http://www.paulkhomes.com/order-plans.html

Have fun.

My existing work bench is 37" tall which for working is ok in the general sense. But to reach over to the middle of a 4' wide table, plus added height of the item working on such as a wing I think is too tall for me and would always be stretching or a bit off balance.

I also have an older bench I got for free (price was right!) which is only 30 inches tall. Which sea a bit too low.

So I have bracketed the height (30" to 37") and may go with 34 inches with adjustable "feet" so I can assure to the best abit to be square and level despite hangar floor inconsistencies. I can then make if I need an "extension" to the table blocks to put under the legs to raise the existing 30" bench to the same height at my new table.

I just started to build my 4x8 3/4 inch table. With 2x4's.

Planning on putting it on four 4" castor wheels that all are able to "lock", so I can move the table about in my hangar.

Is there a need to have an overhang of the table top in order to c-clamp etc items. Or is that. It necessary?

In my haste to get the perimeter built last night before any further potential to warp, I put the 8' 2x4's flush with the edge of the plywood. I'm now wondering if it is worth the effort to unscrew the 2x4 on the 8 foot length to provide a clamping edge!

What is the consensus of you experienced builders out there?

I built a steel frame with 2 x 2 1/4" angle including legs. made the frame with 2x4's using 12" centers with 3/4" plywood top. Use 12" C clamps if need for clamping. Built these 1974 and still have one , the other I cut up for the angle when restoring my 28 Nash

I am glad I have all of my table tops overhang the table frame for clamping.

Yes, you'll be glad to have an edge for clamps quite often. My bench is 3/4" particle board with a 2 x 6 frame (16 ft. long with 6 legs). In this case, heavy is good. One end holds a homemade brake. Put an extra 'joist' down the centerline so it doesn't sag over time, and shim it if you need to. Having a 'flat' table is really handy, especially measuring things, or squaring up the sides, etc. Like a lot of things, to be right, you have to start from the ground up. It also pays off when you go to get the wings straight.

Kinda nice too when you're pounding on it: Things don't bounce so much. That is, if you need to pound on things, ha, ha.

Les Krumel,
Albuquerque

Yep...3/4" MDF works very well . The MDF is much smoother than the plywood . 4 x 8...plenty big enough for center section or one outer S-18 wing . I put it on top of a roller cabinet so it could be moved around , if needed . Waist high worked for me .

RB