Thorp Air Command - T18.net

Steve said I should very carefully read the info at the Sika website for the product. He recommended to use SIKA 209 to cover the plexi to make it opaque, SIKA 226 for cleaning the frame, and SIKAFLEX 295UV BLACK for gluing the canopy on, trying to get at least 1/8" space between the canopy and the frame.

He recommends that all structural bonding be done with the BLACK urethane as it has much better UV properties. If needed, one can make fillets with WHITE urethane over the black stuff, 295UV comes in black and white colors.

Most places I called would only sell a case of 12 10-ounce tubes of the 295UV. Again, Steve came to the rescue... Jamestown Distributors @ 1-800-423-0030 will sell you individual quantities. Pricing: about $12US for a tube of 295UV black or white, $31US for a pint of 209 and $11US for a pint of 226. So that's what I ordered, one tube each of black and white, one pint of 226 and one pint of 209. One could say I am now committed ;-)

*** admin posted for Hurant Kariban ***

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Forum Administrator

Dang - back when I used to peddle the stuff, a 10.5 oz toob of Sneekyflex was out the door for 3.5 jeters. It's the best stuff on the market tho - a lot of floatable boatables remain as such due to that product.

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Fraser MacPhee
N926WM
Serial #279-1
Angel Fire, NM (KAXX)

Chalkie Stobbart was the first to announce that he had used SIKA to install the windshield on his RV-6.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/a ... 67327.html
This link is from the VANSairforce forum. I used SIKA to install the windshield, canopy and skirt on my RV-8.
Search the VAN's forum archive, also check out Chalkie Stobbart's original article.
http://www.rvclubsa.com/rvsa_article_2_canopy_glue.htm
This is a very tried and accepted method...now. At first it was contentious, to the point that people would tell you that you cannot do it (like they had the authority to make you stop or something?)
The advantages are:
Ease of original installation.
Reduced likelyhood of cracks, due to no fastener holes in the plexi.
Reduced optical distortion due to long low stress SIKA joints instead of puckered point loads at rivet/screw fateners.
Disadvantages:
Heavier, especially if you use too much SIKA
More expensive (those SIKA products aren't cheap)

Here's a limk to some additional info.

http://wiki.matronics.com/wiki/index.ph ... our_Canopy

http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=2005061620363366

The task of replacing the boot cowl on my rebuild project has lead me to contemplating how to attach the existing windshield to the boot cowl. I am not pleased with the hole spacing the builder chose to attach the two and not wanting to drill a bunch more holes in it. I am considering using something like Sikaflex to adhere just the boot to the windshield (because of canopy to windshield fitment the trim piece around the roll bar is vital). Any advice on techniques, how to hold it in place while the stuff sets, words of caution, would be greatly appreciated.

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Derek Fritschle
N27DW
618-839-1522
OLY

Derek, around the boot cowl still requires fasteners even if you use sikaflex. Gary told me he tried all sorts of clamping techniques but in the end he needed the screws to hold it in place while the goo cured.

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Lee Walton
Houston, TX
N51863,N118LW
KEFD

Not sure where the "boot cowl" is ? Lower front for the windscreen ? Any relation to "Hoot Mon, Hoot Mon ?"

RB