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Rich Brazell
PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 4:55 pm 
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Location: Jamul, CA (San Diego area)
Both Bill's and Bruce's set-ups are an improvement. [^] Anyway to get a parts list for Bill's set-up...it looks like it came from the Boeing Assembly line ! [8D] Very clean and professional looking. [;)] I would like to do away with the chain.

RB
NX115RX


Last edited by admin on Mon May 24, 2010 4:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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admin
PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 6:21 pm 
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Rich, I'll try and supply you this info, Bill

** admin posted for Bill Williams **

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Rich Brazell
PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 7:59 pm 
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Location: Jamul, CA (San Diego area)
Mucho Thanks Senior'

RB


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leewwalton
PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 11:53 am 
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Hey Richard ... where are you using a "D Ring" on your tailwheel installation?

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Lee Walton
Houston, TX
N51863,N118LW
KEFD


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Jed Doggett
PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 7:24 am 
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I replaced my tailwheel with very good results. I used an Aviation Products on a spring rod and it is all much more in line and the pull on the chains is much less. I can send you a picture if you will send me your e mail address.

Jed


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leewwalton
PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 7:27 am 
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Thanks Jed, I have the same set up.

I was just curious as to where Richard was using a d-ring in his tailwheel setup.

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Lee Walton
Houston, TX
N51863,N118LW
KEFD


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Tom Hunter
PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 10:53 am 
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Dear Group,

As some of you know, I have been made up a batch of Trusty Rod Springs and Aviation Products Tail wheel upgrade kits. So far 5 out of ten have been shipped with 2 going to Australia. Attached, please find a picture of Jamie's tail spring, wheel and spat installed. He is getting close to flying his new Thorp. He is also installing the Fuel Injection specific airscoop with floating baffle. Several of our Australian Thorpers will be at Oshkosh.

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Hoov330
PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 7:27 pm 
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How much is the set-up minus the wheel pant??

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J. Hoover
N330JH
Yelm, Wa


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Fraser MacPhee
PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:49 am 
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Dick - there is a little slop there, but not much - that is result of me experimenting and finding what was comfortable for me. Feel free to experiment and change the tension,.......however.......If I were in your shoes (and I have been), given that you have inspected it and it is a "safe" setup with the rod spring and double fork (and not the slop happy Maule paper weight I learned with), I would learn the airplane the way it is, vs starting to change the setups - I think you might find yourself getting frustrated at trying to fit the airplane to your abilities, rather than fitting your abilities to the airplane......or in other words, you are wanting the airplane to learn you, rather than you learn the airplane - Patience grasshopper - don't force it - my ego was soundly crushed 4 years ago - keep practicing on the ground SAFELY and your tootsies will eventually dance an almost imperceptably fine waltz while keeping it dead center on the taxiway.

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Fraser MacPhee
N926WM
Serial #279-1
Angel Fire, NM (KAXX)


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Rich Brazell
PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:51 am 
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I would recommend the set-up I installed. [8D] I got the idea from Bill and he got it from Gomer. Bill Williams has the parts list on a previous post. Does away with the chains. [}:)] The turn buckles allow you to set the tension very easily and they lock in place with a safety clip (no safety wire required). No play and some tension on the springs. I also recommend the Maule Anti-Shimmy connector spring kit (Spruce P/N 06-15150). It has the "quick link" connectors, which are very nice. They even have a hole for a cotter key or safety wire. [;)]

RB
NX115RX

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Tom Hunter
PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 11:05 am 
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The Rod Spring and Aviation Products tail wheel ready to install on your plane is $650 plus shipping. I have one assembly left. The tail wheel pant or SPAT as our Australian mates call it, is $150 ready to paint and install.

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805-202-4261


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fytrplt
PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 3:07 pm 
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I have corrected several poor steering Thorps and RVs by putting tension on the springs. This ain't no Cub! You can't afford slop back there. Over 2400 hrs proves you won't wear out the rudder bushings. Make sure the rudder and tail wheel line up after the tension exercise. You shouldn't have to use a lot of brakes to steer a properly set up T-18. Try it, you'll like it!

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Bob Highley
N711SH
SN 835
KLAL


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Richard H Woodcock
PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 7:09 am 
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Here's Bill Williams parts list. Prices are about a year old from ACS, but should be close:
Tailwheel to Rudder Connections:
2 MS21251-B3S Turn buckle barrell $7.50 $15.00
4 MS21256-1 clip $0.26 $1.04
2 MS21255-3RS cable eye $8.85 $17.70
2 MS21260-S3LH swage cable end $4.70 $9.40
2 MS20668-3 swage end $3.95 $7.90
2 Ft 05-03900 3/32" SS cable $0.79 $1.58
$52.62

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N114RW - T18CW


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shinton
PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 4:54 pm 
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Have those of you who changed to the trusty rod spring/AP tailwheel updated your W&B? If so, what weights did you use for the old leaf spring/wheel and new assembly? (I should have weighed it before I installed it) Thanks!

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Scott Hinton
Elizabeth City, NC
N78WG


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Fraser MacPhee
PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 10:35 am 
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Dick Wolff is sleeping with the old hag now, but if memory serves, when I changed from my Maule wet bar wall ornament to the trusty, it did practically nothing for the weight and balance. it was a lighter than the Maule, but hung out there another few inches, so the arm cancelled out the decreased weight, but am pretty sure it was negligible. If it did anything at all, it might have moved the CG aft a 1/6th of an inch or so, and the plane was well balanced. I went off the W&B in the builder's log, then weighed the plane after the tailwheel switcheroo and remember poopooing it. Maybe Dick could stop groping for a few and verify? I do remember taking some grief over not logging the change at the time and flying off some test hours as I should have.

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Fraser MacPhee
N926WM
Serial #279-1
Angel Fire, NM (KAXX)


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