Thorp Air Command - T18.net

Hi Dick,

The flap skins were one of the more difficult pieces to form for me. I wasted a lot of material. There is a lot of info in the old newsletters and some good ideas about how to do it. There was also discussion about using .020" instead of .025" material, as this would be easier to form. I don't know if John Thorp ever confirmed that this would be OK or not, at least in writing. I know that there was discussion about how he supposedly chose .025" in order to utilize existing material & not have to purchase .020" just for this one assembly, & that .020" would be fine. I can't confirm that. Anyway, to your question... this is what I ended up doing. Like Bob said, extra material which is then trimmed away is very helpful. The pictures are of my test strip which I used to develop a sequence which produced an acceptable shape for me. The thing is old & beat-up now, but I hope you can read the markings on it. I made a hole transfer strip to lay out the series of identical holes to hold the skin in "folded" position with clecos. I started with the more gradual upper portion of the curve first (#1 set of holes) & pushed the skin down with a large board (just like we do to form the wing skins), but used a 3" thick "spacer" (2 - 2x4s) in between to automatically limit the amount of bending. I then proceeded to using the other lines of holes in sequence, but this time decreasing my "spacer" thickness in steps down to 3/4" for all the rest. It came out as you see in the last picture. I hope this is halfway clear to you. I'm not saying this is the best or easiest way to do it, but it's what I did.

_________________
John Evens
Arvada, Colorado
T-18 N71JE (sold)
Kitfox 7 SS N27JE

Thanks for the good advice, Bob and John. I guess the leading edge is doable.

Here`s the damage:

I looks to me like you might be able to just straighten the skins out and maybe replace the outer rib unless there is more than I see

Worth the try to "bang" out the dents before putting together a new one . Once the skin is as smooth as possible a "thin" coat of a high grade filler followed by a color coat might do the job .

I agree with David and Rich, Dick.

_________________
John Evens
Arvada, Colorado
T-18 N71JE (sold)
Kitfox 7 SS N27JE

I agree with David and Rich and John, Dick.


Bernie Fried
N18XS

Really? Well that's encouraging. I didn't even consider bending the skins back as a viable option.

I gotta get mo one of those Easy Buttons from Staples. I do tend to make mountains out of molehills. Thanks guys!

d

I agree with those that would agree with the above.....Dan

I am happy to report a successful engine run. I wheeled the airplane out of the garage on Saturday Oct 11. Finished up some little wiring details, some plumbing, stuck the tailpipes on, and cranked 'er up. It took two tries since the fuel bowl was empty, but once she caught, she started up like nothing for the first time since Oct 2010. She ran nice and smoothly and all parameters showed green on the MGL EMS. No leaks, and the bonus was that my innovative fix for the pesky oil leak on the front of the case was completely effective. Looks like I have me a bone-dry engine. (Knock wood.)

I've been grinning like a goofball every since. Will share the timelapse video when I figure out how to make it available.

D

Now that the noises are from a real engine instead of from a kazoo, microphone and the PA from inside the garage, would imagine you're getting fewer visits from the neighborhood shrinks.

Congrats!!

_________________
Fraser MacPhee
N926WM
Serial #279-1
Angel Fire, NM (KAXX)

Way to go Dick!

_________________
Matt Smith
Des Moines, IA
55RC

Fire in the hole!!! Way to go Dick, keep wearing that grin, you deserve it......Dan

Engine run...

Remember my flap skin crisis? I made a slapper. It worked quite well. Now I just have to touch up the paint.

Looks good!

_________________
Matt Smith
Des Moines, IA
55RC