Thorp Air Command - T18.net

Rich,

Did you use TCPGLobals acid etch prior to paint? if so how much was required?

Chuck

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Chuck Kincer
Richmond, Me
575CK
KIWI

I did acid etch, but I used Metalprep 79 which I got from Spruce. Reason I went Spruce was I in route to ONT and Spruce was just off the freeway. I think most body shop supply houses sell the Metalprep 79, as does TCP, (Spruce was maybe a little cheaper). I believe I used 1 gallon as you dilute it...1 part prep 79, to 2 parts water. I used it as directed, but also scrubed the aluminum lightly with a grey 3M pad, then rinsed/dried followed with the alodine. Another tech tip, I used with the alodine was an MT spray bottle (HD for about $1.49). You can also use a brush, but the spray was faster and with less waste. I bought a gallon from Spruce and still have some left over. You can make your own alodine solution. There are sites that sell the powder. Again Spruce was in the neighborhood so I splurged.

I also used a spray bottle to apply the Metalprep 79.

RB

Rich or any other painting pro's,

The plane is all stripped and fiberglass sanded. What did you use for filler? I was looking at West System fillers and didn't know if there was something better or worse out there. Also, what did you wash the glass with prior to filler work? How about your rivet lines, did you fill or leave them exposed? some of the pop rivets on my control surfaces are missing the center pin and there is just a hole and I really didn't want to body fill it. If anyone out there would like to offer your opinions I'd be interested.
Sorry to drag out this thread I just want avoid as many "redo's" as possible.


Thanks
Chuck

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Chuck Kincer
Richmond, Me
575CK
KIWI

I am not a pro, but this is what I used and did not use.

1. As a degreaser/surface prep for primer or paint, I used Toluene/Acetone to remove any remaining grease from the metal/fiberglass. Squeaky clean. [;)]

2. As a filler I used something new to the market called Dynatron Xtra Grip Dynametal System. Suppose to me a high tech auto filler...very light weight. Spruce now/did carry it. Mix it in small batches, cures muey pronto !

3. After that was sanded, I used the Evercoat Ultra Smooth Finishing Putty.

4. I tried to use the Superfil by Poly Fiber, but it took a very long time (for me anyway) to cure hard enough to sand. As with the Dynatron & Evercoat product, go to sand in 20 minutes.

5. As far a filling the mandrel holes in the rivets ? Personal choice, I did as I used a lot of Cherry Max rivets...arms not long enough and no helper to hold that bucking bar in difficult to reach areas. My wing leading edges look like glass and I am sure that smooth surface will gain me an extra 15 kts. [:p]

6. If you do decide to fill and think you have it smooth looking, spray a little gray auto primer on the spot and watch the magic begin ! Unless you are at least a semi-pro at body work, chances are you'll need a little more filler and more sanding to blend it in.

RB
NX115RX

What ever you use, do not use Bondo or any of its products. On my recent strip and paint epoch, the only issues I had were where I had used Bondo over the years. The aircraft paint facility where I did the work uses a white super smooth product used in high end body shops. It costs them about $25 a half liter. If you pay less, you might not be getting a quality product.

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Bob Highley
N711SH
SN 835
KLAL

Yep...I think the "Bondo" is more brittle when it sets up and probably heaver.

RB

Went out in a snow storm yesterday just to find the "West System" #407 for filling, rather pricey but I understand worth it. I spent over $100 for what I would consider a small kit. The 32oz epoxy resin alone was $41.00.

Chuck

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Chuck Kincer
Richmond, Me
575CK
KIWI

So, I'm still assembling, however, this gives you an idea. Damn, this was a lot of work, which I'm not immune too, I just had no idea!. being a first time painter, from 10,000' I Give myself an A+ from 5' a C-. Thanks to Rich and Lee for their painting help and suggestions, now I just have to live with all my paint defects. I was hoping to make it to Sun-N-Fun again this year, however, I'm to far behind the 8ball, maybe I'll see you gent's at Osh.

Chuck
N575CK

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Chuck Kincer
Richmond, Me
575CK
KIWI

Chuck it looks GREAT ! And yes it is a lot of work. I really like the "checker board" scheme. Me being a first time painter, I learned a lot from the "Hot Rod Boys" on their web sites. In particular, wet sanding the paint to remove surface defects...orange peel, runs and bugs ! I followed this up with Meguiars #105 Ultra Cut Compound using a 7 inch variable speed buffer (low speed setting). This really works and turns any shade tree (yours it not a shade tree) paint job into a real looker ! You did a great job and saved a butt load of money.

RB

Chuck,
Any thing would be an improvement from when I saw your aircraft when it was in Great Falls, MT that was before it went to Victoria. I like the checker board, that must'a been a lot of work.

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Bruce Finney
N18JF T-18C #262
Yelm, WA USA

Bruce - that's no checkerboard.......that there is a Tartan!!

Great looking paint scheme Chuck.

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Fraser MacPhee
N926WM
Serial #279-1
Angel Fire, NM (KAXX)

Great paint job but what brand is that three bladed prop and will it stand up to four banger power pulses?

Not a single seep under the tape on the pin strip, I had several however doing the checker board (Tartan).

@ Hurant a Catto.

Chuck

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Chuck Kincer
Richmond, Me
575CK
KIWI

Chuck great job with the checker board.

In Europe CAF had a 104 Sqn, 441 (Sliver Fox) using the call sign "Checker Checker" wonder where they got the name,....



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Again nice work on the paint job.

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Victor J Thompson
C-GIRQ
"In Memory Of Dad"

You have to be proud of the work you have put into getting
this broken bird back to an almost new state. I like the new paint job.

Bill Stephenson
Sidney, B.C.