Thorp Air Command - T18.net

Guys,

I found that the float on my fuel level sender float is not floating so well after sitting all winter. It is a Stewart Warmer unit with a wire steel arm with a brass float. I was wondering how difficult is it to remove the tank to replace the sender and/or the float. Does it drop straight down easily? Has anyone done this recently?

Regards,

Jim

If you don't have an fuel sender access cover, I would personally install one now, and then replace my fuel sender. To me, this is less work than removing the fuel tank. I can't just rotate the top of my tank, nor drop it straight down, without removing my instrument panel.

Sorry Jim. Horrible job. The instrument panel needs to come out. You may be able to safety wire the instruments themselves out of the way. Then Just undo the tank straps and disconnect the fuel lines (drained of course). Then pull the bottom of the tank out first until it is behind the tank supports. Once you drop it down, you may be able to rotate it aft so you can access the sending unit.
I highly recommend replacing the tank cork and vent line at the same time.
Cubes

It depends on how your airplane was built. I can have my fuel tank out in about 30 minutes but my panel consists of 2 easy to remove sections.

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Thorp T18
O-320-B3B (160 HP)
68x74 Sterba Propeller

"The joke in aviation is, 'If you want to make a million, you'd better start with £10m.' " -Bruce Dickinson

For $400 I bought a FC-10 fuel computer so I didn't have to rely on my fuel sender/gauge. Mine read empty with 8 gals left in the tank, now I have the fuel computer dialed in to .8 of a gallon accuracy.

hey Jim,

I just took out the tank on my plane last year. Had to because it was a project and my fuel sending unit was corroded and in pieces. Anyway I would recommend installing an access port for the fuel sending unit by measuring where you need access on the skin from the plans. I measured about 6 times to make sure the location was correct. Drilled a pilot hole in the skin on center and made any correction at that point ( was only and 1/8" off. Whew!) Cut an opening in the skin and fabricated a cover plate (stay away from the stringers!). I replaced the float type to a capacitance unit (no mechanics) and matching gauge which seems to work good so far. If you are going to take the tank out, mine was a B**CH! Time had seemed to turn the cork rubber into glue! Wiggling and a tie down strap on the bottom flange she finally came out. Thanks to Cubes on this project.

Mike
N2WB

Thanks Mike and Cubes! I’ve been struggling to get the tank out for my rebuild. Thought I was missing something, but I think the cork rubber->glue transformation may be my issue.

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Steve Allen-Shinn
steve.allenshinn76@gmail.com 719-339-5581
T-18 Tiger N4784G SN 131