Thorp Air Command - T18.net

So I am a newbie here so please bear with me. I am currently in the process of aquiring a T-18 # N587 in Bristol TN. I have not personally seen the aircraft but I have looked and lots of the pics and spoke with 2 of the former owners. They were happy with it but sold it for other reasons. This acft originally had a O-290 but now has a high time O-360 that still making good compression. I am going to be driving and taking the wings off and trailer it home for detailed inspections before flying it. I am a 30 year A/P, but mostly on heavy metal. Questions: Has a anyone had knowledge of this aircraft? I have searched for a wing removal thread but I don't see anything. I assume it's easy but any tips would be appreciated. What's the best way to transport the wings on a flatbed? I saw some wing stands in the forum but i'm wondering if there is something recommended for a trailer? Any advice on this new project is appreciated.

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Tim Newman
N-587
Moline, IL
KMLI

I transport the wing panels in a sling made from carpet. I wish I had a picture but don't. Remove the outer panels, the center section is held in place by two bolts through the center main spar and two bolts in the rear fuselage attach. Other than fuel lines, auto pilot and wiring that might have been added the center section should drop straight down, pick up the tail and walk it forward over the center section and load up.

here's the wing removal sequence;

1.) remove outer panels
- remove gap covers
- disconnect aileron control at horn (3/8 wrench -3 bolt)
- remove rear spar bolt (7/16 wrench -4 bolt)
- remove main spar nuts (9/16 wrench -6 nut leave bolts in place)
- have someone hold the wing at the tip and another if possible at the wing break as you pull the main spar bolts.
- repeat on other sides
2.) Remove flaps
- behind the seats find the flap control cables
- this should be a -3 nut/bolt and a cotter pin or a nylock nut (need a pair of pliers to remove the cotter pin and a couple of 3/8 wrenches)
- disconnect the flap return springs at the wing break. back off the the nut at the forward end of the return spring.
- remove the flap hinge bolts (7/16 wrench -4 bolt)
- repeat on other side
3.) remove center section
- remove wing root fairings if installed.
- remove lower center gap cover (if removable)
- inside the aircraft disconnect the stab push-pull tube from the control assembly (7/16 wrench -4 bolt)
- remove the nuts from the aft spar attach bolts (DO NOT REMOVE BOLTS YET)
- remove the main attach nuts (forward of main spar looking aft from floor board area).
- here's where it gets a little tricky;
* with one person in the aircraft and two more outside the aircraft remove the aft spar bolts.
Note! Once the aft spar bolts are removed no one is to stand on the wing again ... it will cause damage!
* with two "helpers" supporting the wing at the outer attach fittings, use a rubber mallet and a
taper or similar and drive out the main spar bolts.
* at this point the wing is free to detach from the aircraft
* lower the center section straight down and back (to clear the wheel pants if installed)

AGAIN NOTE: Throughout the process be mindfull of any pitot static and or electrical connections that may need to be disconnected.

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Lee Walton
Houston, TX
N51863,N118LW
KEFD

That's the T18 purchased by Chris Cox. I bought the motor and prop. I guess he won't be at KY DAM. He still has the engine log book.
Somewhere I seem to remember that plane was built with pop rivets. That's a lot of extra weight with the O360.

Bob MO

Chris sold it to Frank Seats a while back .. what extra weight are you refering to Bob? The engine?

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Lee Walton
Houston, TX
N51863,N118LW
KEFD

That's correct. He added a different prop and the O360 (50+LBs). Then somewhere there was something said about pop rivets and I remember thinking "I did not think you could use pops with the heavier engines". Maybe it was the heavier Gross weight.
Correct me if this is wrong.

Bob MO

Ahh I see ... the 0-360 is quite a bit heavier (30 lbs) .. but I'm not aware of any restriction on pop rivets .. some have argued (with evidence) that monel pops are stronger in shear than aluminum hammered rivets. Safe to say that Don Taylors Thorp was flown at a higher gross than any of us (180 hp as well) ... take a close look at his airplane. He was not afriad of pops at all.

I'm not saying I like pops (I don't) but I would not be afriad of an airplane that was built with them as long as the guy knew what he was doing ... golden rule from my dad ... "a good pop rivet is better than a poorly hammered solid rivet."

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Lee Walton
Houston, TX
N51863,N118LW
KEFD

Oh yeah .. Frank Seats pulled the CS off and put a wood prop on this airplane .. hence the 30lbs vs 50lbs.

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Lee Walton
Houston, TX
N51863,N118LW
KEFD

Wingnut, I sent you a private message. You need to know my experience so you can proceed with your eyes wide open.
d

Thank you for the information everyone. Yes, I am buying it from Frank. I have only talked to him a few times but seems very nice. I am trading him my C-150L plus some cash. My First step into home builts. I hope it turns out a plus. Unfortunately due to my limited tail wheel time I can't fly it home to the quad cities. I work for John Deere Corporate aviation but none of these guys have any recent tail time either. So, I am left with getting it on a trailer. There is also a issue with getting it started. Frank is putting in a new Sky-tech which hopefully will fix that issue. I am looking forward to learning the plane and doing some mods.

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Tim Newman
N-587
Moline, IL
KMLI

Congrats on your purchase "wingnut"!