Thorp Air Command - T18.net

The Tempast 108-2 filter that I use is shorter than the comparable Champion model but contians the same amount or more fliter media than the Champion. This is according to the manufacturer. The ticker walls and better crimp on the aviation filters result in a much higher burst pressure than the automotive types. Lycoming aircraft engines run at much higher oil presure than the modern race car engine with much thicker oil. The Tempast filters also include a magnet to trap any ferris debris. I use 'em.

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Bob Highley
N711SH
SN 835
KLAL

I am with you Bill and like Bob I use the Tempest filter . I buy a case from Spruce and with the 10% case discount it works out to be about $14.00 per filter . I believe the K & N runs $10.00 + ?

RB

Most "experts" will tell you that it's important to establish a baseline, and then look for subtle changes over time with regular samples at each oil change, indicating impending problems. When you start seeing part numbers on your frags, it's too late.

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John Evens
Arvada, Colorado
T-18 N71JE (sold)
Kitfox 7 SS N27JE

In my case, I tried to explain it , Bill. Nothing was available in a direct-mounted spin-on adapter, or short enough filters at the time. Lycoming filters didn't have built-in bypass (guess I could've used a Continental filter). Did the testing, found out the filter chosen actually had greater filter surface area than the aircraft unit, and construction & burst strength were equal or better. Plus, it was a pretty cool thing to "build your own" like I did. You know all about that with some of the things you have done with your Thorp... these are "Experimental" machines. Additionally, my filter set-up has worked beautifully for over 20 years, and I've saved weight, eliminated extra hoses & additional potential leaks, have more space in my engine compartment, and had much cleaner oil changes than the Lycoming horizontally oriented unit allowed at the time. My engine seems to like it - it still uses a quart of oil in 25 hours after over 1200 hours, and I like it too. I saw guys using what I considered to be inferior filters, and decided to do it "right". It wasn't just to save 5 bucks a shot (it was a lot more than that at the time), but that was an additional advantage... sort of like you using those antique, "boat-anchor" magnetos. Sorry, but I'm kind of proud of it and using the filter that I do. Oh, and by the way, I bought my brand-new engine from Lycoming through Dick Wagner at Wag-Aero for $5,140.

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John Evens
Arvada, Colorado
T-18 N71JE (sold)
Kitfox 7 SS N27JE

I guess we've been down this oil filter/adapter/remote road a few times before ! I know what I like and prefer and that's what I am sticking to. Everyone is going to have a preference as to what kind of oil they use , a particular kind of filter , remote or no remote , adapter or no adapter . "I'll take the High Road and you take the Low Road" and somewhere in between we will meet ! If it works and you feel comfortable using it, go for it ! BOOM !

RB

What do I know? I'm still using the oil strainer and "velocity valve" oil cooler set up!!
In fact, it's winter, and time to put in the air flow restricted to get the oil temp up!!
I would like a filter, but I don't care for the Vernatherm. I might make a cable controlled air shutter, or valve in the oil line to the cooler so I can have cockpit control...
I'm dreaming of a fitting for remote hoses that replaces the strainer & temp sensor housing, then a remote filter base. The continuous debate may eventually determine which spin on element I choose.

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Scott Emery
EAA Chapter 326
T-18 N18TE

I did install an air control valve to avoid using duct tape and cardboard and I can control it from the cockpit. You can buy one from Avery Tools for $60.00 or make your own . I made mine for about $5.00 .

RB

I think that Airwolf makes something like that, Scott. If it's not exactly what you want, it would be easy to make one out of a thick piece of aluminum plate.

There are several good filter options, but as I said before, if I was doing it over, I'd go with an approved aircraft filter with a built-in bypass. What we couldn't get then is available now. Probably one of the main reasons is because I'm getting tired of having to explain & defend my choices a hundred times, and I know everyone else is too. I have no problem however with any one of several auto filters I've seen, including the ones I use. If they're good enough for $100,000+ race cars which do run high-pressure/ high volume oil pumps, they're good enough for me.

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John Evens
Arvada, Colorado
T-18 N71JE (sold)
Kitfox 7 SS N27JE

Thank you John ! I thought were going to have to post the entire history of the oil filter including the one that used a roll of toilet paper (Frantz?) ! I think it actually worked pretty well .

RB

I was so curious about toilet paper filters that I bought a Frantz, and also modified a Motorgard (no longer marketed for oil, they are used as the final air filter for car painters)
The Frantz cast aluminum housing seems a bit flimzy, the Morotgard has a plasitc tube inside.
Neither would go on my plane, but I put the Frantz on my diesel generator.
Who knows if it works, the power hasn't gone out since.

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Scott Emery
EAA Chapter 326
T-18 N18TE

. I have no problem however with any one of several auto filters I've seen, including the ones I use. If they're good enough for $100,000+ race cars which do run high-pressure/ high volume oil pumps, they're good enough for me.[/quote]


My interest was just getting through the myth and speculation and finding some real data. Harder to do than I thought. If an AC filter would fit on an adaptor, on the T18 with out running a remote, I would run one

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http://www.dixiefriedfabrication.com/

OK I am going to throw this in the discussion.

My Thorp has an oil filter addapter that has plenty of clearance around it. The problem is I do not know who makes it. I also do not have a picture handy. The only marking on the adapter I can find is 62.5 degrees. I assume this is the amount of angle from face to face.

The adapter screws on just like a normal straight filter would. Then because of the angle the filter hangs down and back. A 75-80 degree offset would probably be better then the filter would be almost straight up when changing. Basicaly it is just an extention with an angle built in. KIS.

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Matt Smith
Des Moines, IA
55RC

Ford made remote adapters for the 352 windsor to clear the frame,might be one

That

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http://www.dixiefriedfabrication.com/

Yea I know, I will look through my pics tonight but I don't think I have a good one of the adapter. I am not planning on taking my cowl off for a while so the photo may have to wait.

It is just a round peice of metal with a "bend" in it. I am guessing that the inside "bend" is 2" and the outside is probably 5". Whatever would make a 62.5 degree bend in the middle and with a diamiter a little bit bigger than a standard AC filter. I use the Tempest because they are cheaper than the Champions.

The adapter has a gaskit just like the filter does. It just screws on to the engine using the same threads as the filter would, at least that is what I assume since I have never had the adapter off but it does turn some (1/4 turn) when I take the filter off. I can point it down more so I don't spill quite as much oil. A little more bend would be better. Or If I had the longer gear that may help also. I could jack the front up some. The odd thing is the first several oil changes I do not remember spilling any oil when I unscrewed the filter. Now it runs down the side as I unscrew it so it still makes a mess although not near as big a mess as a horizontal or upside down filter would.

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Matt Smith
Des Moines, IA
55RC