Thorp Air Command - T18.net

The most common engine is the 0-360A1A used on about all planes requiring a CS prop. The last three or four digits determine what accessaries it has on it, mags, carb,prop etc. For a CS setup you need an odd number, for FP the numbers are even. A constant speed prop on a Thorp requires a special hub with the built-in added extension. There are a few guys running a spacer,but Hartzell does not recommend it. There is a 0-360A1G6 on Ebay,that's a rear mounted horizontal carb,CS setup off a Duchess. You would eliminate the scoop on the cowl. Good luck on an engine, the RV guys have dried up the market.

good to know Bill. Can you tell me more about this special hub needed? Where can I purchase one?

HC-F2YR-1 Most Prop shops can order. I see them once in a while for sale on Barstormers or VAF.
The blades are F7666A-4 These are cut down blades used on the Arrow or older Mooneys.
Harzell now makes a replacement blade which seems to have a better performance. Can't remember the designation.

much appreciated.

Forgot; they "ain't" cheap. I just looked at my invoice from 1992 and the prop was $7600.00 I think Bob paid over 10K for new simatar prop............

yea, i agree. I just got the following email from Hartzell:

Ryan

Got a good RV friend and use his number or at one time Richard Eckland used to be an OEM dealer, check with him

For what it's worth Ryan, I have a 74 inch Hartzell prop off the IO-360 C1C angle valve (since sold) that came with the project now being finished by Lee - brand new - never been spun - but no logs - I've adverted it on B-stormers for 1,500 bones and had lot's of inquiries, but no commits - it has the A-hub, so the AD applies - it's merely taking up space - my thinking is that if you get a B-hub and use the blades, you can save some coin - I do not know the number on the blades, as they are on the shank buried in the hub - the stamped hub numbers are not jiving with what Hartzell says they should be, hence would replace it - you pay the shipping and pay me what you think is fair if you think you can use them - if you cannot use them, you are out the shipping - if you can and have a prop shop put a good hub to the blades, perhaps you can get a decent prop for under 5K. No worries it not - if no one wants it, it makes a great......?........tripping hazard.

Frazier
I am going to PM you about details. I am interested in trying to make this work.
Ryan

Where are you guys buying your exhaust systems for your IO-360 engines?

Also, I am about to buy an IO-360-A1F, parallel valve engine from a guy named Dick Waters, out of Orlando, FL. Dick said hes been building engines for 45 years and knew John Thorp personally. Any of you guys know of him?

Never had any dealings with Dick Waters. He comes to Sun N Fun as a vendor. Years ago he was in the blowboat business and this is where he got into the aircraft engines. He does build experimental engines for the experimental aircraft and seems to do good work. I have not heard any complaints. The locals here used "Junior Jerrigan" over in Plant City. His primary business is blowboats. He has built several engines for the local RV guys and they have had great sucess.

Thanks Bill. Its makes me feel a little better that people know of him.

Does anyone out there have a rear facing horizontal induction setup? I am concerned about 1) fit and 2)clearance 3) where are you getting the air from? If so can you please post (or just email me) some pictures of your setup? I think this is the way I want to go, but if its gonna take serious modifications, I will probably rethink my decision.

It seems Bill B. (I think that was Bills airplane?) was getting his air from the back of the baffle system with a dodge air filter. I like that idea at first glance. Any cons?

Both Bob and I have the rear mounted setup, his is FI and mine carburated. It does require modifing the mount. The air box is a little snug . I have pictures of my airbox somewhere and will post them. I have seen a horizontal mounted carb using a updraft sump with a 90 degree elbow using a HA6 carb. This setup uses the standard mount and is easier to mount and air box. Ron Hayes has this setup if memory is correct.

Ryan - I get my air from the rear baffling and an MA-4 updrafter - carb heat box facing fear - induction hose just goes down and into the box, then forward and up the carb - I use an RV-8 air filter sandwiched between two plates - 4 skrooz - eazy on...eazy off......I like the setup so far.....will prolly 45 a fitting off the filter though to make room for the remote oil filter this winter.....I think that is project #16 or 17 for this winter...can't remember now.