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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 4:35 pm 
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Good tips Dons. I'll keep that spacing issue in mind to check as I get mine installed.

Jeff, I'll probably try that "washer as a spacer" trick that they talk about on the vans site in order to get spacing behind that cylinder.

Thanks again.


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dickwolff
PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 11:11 am 
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Just got my BAF-O360 kit from Vans... amazing!!! I'm sure there's still going to be a lot of work to put them on, but they gave me a good head start. All the parts are prebent, perfectly shaped, folded, and formed. All rivet and screw holes are punched, and matching pieces fit perfectly. The kit is totally complete with baffle material, tension rods, spacers, vent, vent screen, rivets, pop rivets, screws, bolts, nuts and 14 pages of detailed drawings and instructions. I can't imagine buying just the templates and not the kit.

There was one disappointment: the oil cooler mounting parts come as an optional kit, and there is no mention of this on the website or in the catalog. Maybe it's a blessing in disguise; the rumor is that the baffle design is a wee bit weak to withstand the weight of the cooler.

Will let you know how I make out.


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James Grahn
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 10:43 pm 
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That's just like VANs. They do ALL the work.
Cubes


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Rich Brazell
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 11:54 pm 
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Well they didn't do all the work . They got my $7.00 and their templates had all the bend lines , hole locations and cut lines . I supplied about $20.00 worth of sheet metal and 1/2 a day tracing , cutting and drilling . I think i came up with the same "kit" that VANS sells but kept more $$$ in my pocket . Even with the "kit" you are going to have to do some major trimming to the top of the baffle (and a few other areas) to get the fit you want...assuming you don't make any mistakes and need to make a new part w/o the templates ? ??? BOOM ! "Stay Thirsty My Friend !" 8)


RB O0


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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 10:25 pm 
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Here I am at about the 7 minute mark of my work session. I'm glad I went with the premade kit. What a time saver.


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fytrplt
PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 10:35 pm 
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Don't rivet the front yet! The T-18 cowl is much tighter than the RV. You will need to draw the front verticals in and modify the front "floors".

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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 10:39 pm 
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Thats good info Bob. Thank you.


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Rich Brazell
PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 11:12 pm 
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Yep...I would put a stop work order on the baffle until the engine is hung and you can start to fit the cowl . ;) The real time saver was all the pre bent pieces and having all the screw/bolt hole locations marked ! :P Attaching the baffle to the pre marked engine attach points should not be a problem , but as Bob said hold off on the riveting . If you get too far ahead you will find yourself having to make replacement pieces . BOOM ! :o

BTW...It looks like that engine is in the bedroom ? I would put a blanket on it during these cold nites ! :D


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